Château Rauzan-Ségla, Interview with Henry De Ruffray, cellar master
On the occasion of his retirement, Henry De Ruffray, cellar master of Château Rauzan-SéglaHe gave an interview to Cavissima. Since 1987, he has dedicated all his talent to reviving the sleeping beauty and establishing the vintages of the domaine among the greatest wines of Medoc.
Rauzan-Ségla, an institution of Margaux
In 4 centuries of history, the domaine It has experienced ups and downs. It was created in 1661 by Pierre Desmezures de Rauzan and remained under the family's management for over two centuries. In 1866, the property was listed Second Grand Cru in 1855, it changed hands before passing through numerous owners during the 20th century.
The family Wertheimer, also at the head of the Chanel House and the prestigious Château Canon in Saint-Emilionacquires the domaine in 1994 and undertook numerous renovation works.
The wines are renowned for their power tinged with finesse, freshness, and imbued with the magnificent terroir of MargauxThey reveal themselves through meticulous aging and incredible cellaring potential. Over the vintages, the Château Rauzan-Ségla has become a benchmark for the appellation thanks to the energy and intelligence deployed by Henry De Ruffray, his cellar master for over 30 years.
He looks back on his career within the cellars of the famous Second Grand Cru of Margaux.
Interview, A look back at Henry De Ruffray's career
Cavissima: Can you describe your career path? How did you get to Rauzan-Ségla ?
Henry De Ruffray: I am the son of a military man, with no particular predisposition for winemaking. Wine was simply a great discovery and a great passion for me. In 1982, I obtained my engineering degree from ENITA (National School of Agricultural Engineering, now Bordeaux Sciences Agro). I worked for two years as a vineyard manager at Château Hanteillan then I taught viticulture and oenology for 2 years.
Finally, I arrived at Château Rauzan-Ségla by responding to a classified ad in “Sud-Ouest” at the right time. I worked there for 32 years.
Cavissima: What have been the major developments in Rauzan-Ségla in terms of viticulture and winemaking?
HDR: The purchase of the property in 1994 by the Wertheimer brothers allowed for extensive investment and the implementation of a genuine quality policy. The vineyard has grown from 40 hectares to 70 hectares. I've witnessed roughly 30 years of various projects, including new buildings, a new winery, new equipment, and new cellars. Today, the facility is magnificent.
Cavissima: For you, which vintage of Rauzan-Ségla Which one is most like you?
HDR: Funny question! From 1987 to 2019, I worked with the whole team to do the best possible, and some years it was harder than others.
Cavissima: Which vintage do you prefer? Which one surprises you the most when tasting it?
HDR: Difficult to answer, it's a bit like asking which of your children you prefer… I do have a soft spot for the 2010 version.
The 2001 vintage is certainly the one that surprises me the most today. It has been excellent to drink for several years now. It is proving to be a great vintage, somewhat forgotten, very classic, with superb evolution in the bottle.
Cavissima: Which vintage gave you the most difficulty?
HDR: Definitely the first, 1987, a year of sad memory! It was a difficult vintage, late, rainy, so the grapes were unripe and rotten, and my first at Rauzan. It wasn't easy to start with, but it was very formative; you learn best when things are difficult. That vintage didn't leave a lasting impression in Bordeaux, but I remember it very well!
Otherwise, each vintage has had its share of difficulties. The easiest to make remains the 2005.
Cavissima: Can you share a memorable moment with us? Rauzan-Ségla ?
HDR: I remember a large tasting with, on one side, renowned oenologists and, on the other, perfumers. All these passionate people gathered around magnificent wines. The discussions between them were very interesting.
Cavissima: If you had a magic wand, how would you use it on Rauzan-Ségla ?
Obviously, I would use this wand to have exceptional weather from April to October, with just the right amount of rain and sun, at the right time to have exceptional harvests.
Cavissima: Finally, do you have any advice to give to your successor?
Go for it! Don't ask yourself what I would have done. Have just as much fun doing it. Rauzan-Ségla that I was able to get.
At Cavissima, we sincerely hope that the quality of the vintages of domaine This event follows in the footsteps of previous editions, and especially the exceptional 2018 edition, which left us speechless. We thank Henry De Ruffray for sharing his experience with us and wish him all the best for the future!
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